Saturday, December 31, 2011

Truck Exhausts Are Important to Its Health

!±8± Truck Exhausts Are Important to Its Health

The truck has diverse systems that work in harmony to make it run. This makes the truck highly comparable to the human body. In order for a person to live well, all of the systems must be running smoothly. Just the same, the truck needs to have all of its systems operating in good condition. So if a person has the circulatory system, the truck has the engine and the ignition system. Since people eat, they need to digest what they consumed so that waste could be eliminated.

There are important truck parts in this process. They are the exhaust pipes, the catalytic converter, the exhaust manifold, and the tail pipe.

The truck needs to be fed with fuel for its combustion process. But, during the engine's operation, not all of the fuel will be utilized. Some unburned fuel particles will be left. While the catalytic converter may try its best to clean the truck, it may be not enough. Hence, the only solution is to throw out what is harmful to the truck.

Hence, the human body has the digestive system and the excretory system. Likewise, the truck has its own emissions control system, and then the exhaust system. Both systems help the truck filter out combusted fuels as well as noxious waste or emissions. Noticeably, both the human body and the truck follow the same principle.

What comes out of the tail pipe is ideally something that has already been filtered. This will help trucks reduce the pollution they inevitably generate. One must remember that the engine needs clean fuel too, hence the installation of assemblies such as the emissions and exhaust system. After all, what comes in to the truck is what comes out of it. So if one will only feed the truck clean oil, then the emissions will be cleaner too.


Truck Exhausts Are Important to Its Health

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Thursday, December 29, 2011

How to Select the Right Aftermarket ATV Exhaust for You

!±8± How to Select the Right Aftermarket ATV Exhaust for You

Selecting the right exhaust for your ATV or UTV

Buying a new exhaust for your atv or utv is by far the easiest and fastest way to gain lots of extra power from your machine. But before you buy, It's important to do your research and not run out and buy the first or cheapest exhaust system you find. Nothing is worse than wasting your hard earned cash on something your just not happy with. In order to avoid that, here's some things to keep in mind:

PERFORMANCE

If you're like me, the first and most important thing on your list is performance. Performance can sometimes be the cure-all for any other downfalls you may see in a product. Even if it looks and sounds like someone stuck an old soup can back there, if it outperforms everything else, your happy and ready to sing its praises.

All exhausts are not created equal, the power delivery for every pipe is different. Sometimes its hard to determine which exhausts perform the best. The easiest way is to read your favorite atv or utv magazine pipe shootouts. They usually have the best expert opinions plus dyno runs with hard figures you can compare. It's also a good idea to look at what people have to say on popular online forums.

You can learn a lot from dyno sheets, learn how to read them and what the number's mean. The pipe with the highest peak horsepower number doesn't always mean it delivers the best "useable" power. You want to find an exhaust that shows good power increases throughout the powerband. Keep in mind your riding style and around what rpm range you do most of your riding.

Keep in mind, If you plan to modify your motor in the future you may want to go with and exhaust that performs better on a modified motor versus a stock motor.

LOOKS

This part is fairly self explanatory. Just keep in mind that there are many different styles and options out there for exhausts like: different shapes, exhaust tips, colored, chromed, brushed aluminum, carbon fiber and way more.

SOUND LEVEL:

As time goes on this particular area has become more and more important. A lot more than just your comfort level should be considered. You should always check with your favorite riding area to see if there are sound restrictions. Most tracks also have restrictions/ limitations.

What types of activities will you be using this ATV or UTV for? (i.e. Hunting) It's not always fun to swap out your new exhaust for the stock one, every time you want to keep things quiet. Do you ride through your own, or other, neighborhood to get to your riding area? Not fun to deal with angry neighbors or pay tickets. Plus as an ATV community it's important to be respectful of others, the last thing we need is an excuse for someone to close another trail or riding area.

Another thing to keep in mind if your riding in national forest is if your exhaust is USFS approved or does it have an USFS approved spark arrestor. If your not sure contact the manufacturer.

MANUFACTURER:

You should feel comfortable with the exhaust manufacturer, do they have good a good reputation for developing good quality products? Are they well established in the industry? Are they available for product support?

ASSOCIATED COSTS:

Make sure you are aware of everything that comes with the purchase of your exhaust system. Here a a few things to look for:

- Jet kit or proper jetting recomendations.

- EFI controller for fuel injected systems

- Are you paying for a full system or slip on

A. generally an aftermarket header may only net you a couple horsepower. Is this worth the additional cost?

- Air intake system

When weighing the Cost it is important to keep in mind these additional purchases you may need to make.

Purchasing a new exhaust system for your machine isn't a cheap or simple process. Do your research. In the end you'll have the peace of mind that you spent your money wisely. Be safe and Have fun!


How to Select the Right Aftermarket ATV Exhaust for You

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Tuesday, December 27, 2011

2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Launches On The Bumper!

NMRA World Finals - Bowling Green, KY - October 2nd, 2010 Evolution Performance, Inc. - 2011 Mustang GT 5.0L 4V - L&M Race Engines Built Coyote with an F1C Procharger. The car was Custom Tuned By Jon Lund! Go To www.evoperform.com to purchase Cold Air Intakes, Evolution Performance, Inc. Custom Tuned SCT X3's, Superchargers, Longtube Headers, Axle Back and Catback Exhaust Systems, Off-Road and High Flow Catted X-Pipe's, Suspension Kits, Race Wheels, Tires, and Much, Much More! In-Stock, Same Day Shipping - Online Store Open 24/7 - www.evoperform.com

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Sunday, December 25, 2011

Dpf, What and Where Is It? How Does it Work? Should I Buy a Dpf Delete Kit?

!±8± Dpf, What and Where Is It? How Does it Work? Should I Buy a Dpf Delete Kit?

This is a question we get a million times a day. Since 2007 all Dodge Cummins 6.7, Ford Powerstroke 6.4, and Chevy Duramax 6.6 trucks come from the installation qualified with a particulate filter to meet tougher emissions standards. A diesel particulate filter (Dpf) is a gadget that traps the soot and unburnt fuel from diesel combustion. You may have noticed if you have one the 07+ diesel pickups that it never puts out any black smoke at all. The Dpf will capture 90% or great of all harmful diesel emissions. Once the Dpf has come to be "full" of soot, it will need to have a regeneration cycle in order to burn all the soot out. You may have noticed a light on your dash from time to time that alerts you that the Dpf is in "regen" or "cleaning filter."

Basically what is happening during this process is that the engine's computer has decided from the facts that it receives from the sensors installed in the exhaust that the Dpf has filled up past it's acceptable limit. The computer then opens the Egr (exhaust recirulation valve) introducing hot exhaust into the intake to help get get exhaust gas temps higher and also injects a small shot of fuel into the cylinders when the exhaust valves are open. The raised exhaust temps and the small number of fuel then burn out the particulate (soot) that the Dpf has collected since it's last regen. Once the computer gets readings from the sensors in the exhaust that the filter is flowing an acceptable limit again, it ends the regen cycle. The frequency of this cleaning cycle is different from car to car depending on use, mileage, and motor condition.

Myths about the Dpf system:

1. The lines on the side of the exhaust are fuel lines that dump fuel directly into the filter and the other connections are glow or spark plugs that ignite the fuel to clean the filter.

Not at all. As I stated above, the fuel needed for cleaning the dpf is entered into the motor cylinders by route of the regular fuel injectors during the exhaust stroke of the engine. A small shot of fuel is pushed out with the rest of the exhaust gas. The metal lines every person sees on the side of the Dpf filter are for a pressure sensor that is commonly attached to the side of the transmission or frame. They have the long metal tubes on them to get the temperature of the exhaust they are measuring down before it reaches the sensor. Again, I don't care what the tech at the dealership says about those lines, if he says they are fuel lines (which I hear all the time), he is an idiot and you should take off your truck from there as quickly as possible. The other wires you see going to the exhaust before and after the Dpf filter are not spark or glow plugs. They are thermocouples that quantum exhaust temperature. The computer uses exhaust temperature and pressure before, at, and after the dpf to quantum how plugged the dpf is and when it's time to achieve a regen.

2. I can just take off the Dpf filter and put a piece of pipe in there.

Sorry, no. If you take off the Dpf filter and make no adjustments to the engine's computer, it will enter whether a limp mode or a constant state of regen. Naturally put, all the sensors and the dpf have to be in excellent working order when running the stock vehicle's programming or else your truck will go haywire and you will not be able to drive it.

Common problems with the Dpf system:

1. Poor Fuel economy - This is the number one complaint we get from customers who have trucks qualified with a Dpf. Most customers who traded in their pre-07 diesel pickups have been fully unhappy with the lack of fuel mileage that used to enjoy. The midpoint fuel economy we hear habitancy report on the Dpf qualified trucks is commonly 12-14 mpg. Many of these folks traded in trucks that did 18-22 mpg and are fully disgusted.

2. Inordinate regens - Many of our customers who use their trucks for work complain about very frequent regens that kill their fuel mileage and performance. Many customers who work outdoors in the winter were used to leaving their old diesels run all day while they were on the job site. The Dpf qualified trucks don't cope this very well. The cooler idling temperature of the exhaust gas will soot up the Dpf on an accelerated rate. It is not uncommon for these customers to be on their second or third filter convert because the truck went into constant limp mode. The commonly dealership response is: "You can't let these new trucks idle." Which goes over pretty well with guys who are stuck at a job site five miles back in the woods all day and the temperature never gets above ten degrees.

3. High transfer cost - If any of you have had to pay for a Dpf transfer out of warranty, you probably had a heart attack when you got the bill. A transfer Dpf (which isn't available aftermarket yet) runs practically 00-00 for the just the filter alone. And hears the scary part. Dpf life is estimated between 120,000 and 150,000 miles. If you plan on holding your new diesel pickup for a few hundred thousand miles great start a Dpf fund.

4. Restricts operation modifications - With the new diesel pickups, the possible for horsepower improvements is tremendous. We have taken all three brands of pickups to close to or over 500 rear wheel horsepower and 1000 ft/lbs of torque with just intake, exhaust, and programming modifications. Never has so much operation been so easy and affordable while still maintaining road manners. The only question is whatever past a small tow type tune will aggravate the particulate filter. Turning up the motor will yield more soot which will plug the dpf sooner causing more regens. Many customers who run a 100 horsepower program report very poor fuel mileage and constant regens.

What can be done to increase Dpf life and limit regens?:

Since we are not allowed by law to take off the Dpf system, we are stuck with it if you want to comply with Federal emissions and keep your truck legal. Here are a few tips to help mileage and Dpf life:

1. Use the right fuel - It is assuredly crucial and considerable to use ultra low sulphur fuel in any car qualified with a particulate filter. High amounts of sulfur in the fuel will plug the Dpf immediately. We get lots of questions from farmers about the red fuel. As far as we know you can't buy high sulfur fuel commercially anymore. We have a refinery practically ten minutes from the shop that refines diesel. Both fuels are exactly the same, their is just red dye added to the offroad fuel. It won't hurt whatever to run the low sulphur red fuel. The other question we get asked is about additives. Our advice is to only run products that were made for diesel fuel. Power Service, K100, Standyne, and Flash Lube for example are brands that we see no problems running. Do Not add any sort of homemade fixes. Adding a quart of saw oil, atf, or whatever else probably isn't a good idea. It will burn dirty and may clog the dpf.

2. Use the permissible motor oil - Make sure you are using an motor oil that is rated properly for your truck. Some motor oil gets burnt up in combustion no matter what. If you are running oil that is not formulated for a Dpf qualified vehicle, it will soot up the filter sooner.

3. Keep idling to a minimum - Naturally put, idling contributes to dpf problems. Period. holding the rpm's elevated during will help. holding idling to a minimum is best for these trucks.

4. Run it hard once in a while - Don't be afraid once in a while when going up a hill to matt the throttle for a few seconds. Running the truck hard and getting things nice and warm will help clear out soot deposits.

I want to take off the Dpf. What can I do and what will be the benefits?

First thing, it is assuredly against the law to take off or disable any emissions gadget for any car that is going to be operated on the communal highways. If you determine you want to take off emissions tool for any reason, it is solely up to you and your mechanic to determine what is safe and legal for your application. I do not condone nor recommend removing the dpf or any other emissions device. All the examples I speak about below were tested off-road and the mileage tests were performed on our Superflow chassis dyno that simulate the load the truck has alone and when towing.

We have done some testing on all three brands of trucks to see what results could be achieved by removing the dpf filter system. There are many products available for off-road and competition use that will disable the dpf system. You have to run some sort of aftermarket gadget to disable the law or there will be problems when you take off the Dpf. There are some options that will allow the removal of the Dpf without any horsepower increase and also some options that will add up to 250 horsepower along with removing the Dpf.

Here are the test trucks we have done controlled tests on our chassis dyno with:

Truck #1: 2007.5 Ford F-350 6.4 Powerstroke
Mods: S&B Cold Air Intake, Edge Race Evolution, Dpf Delete pipe (rest installation exhaust)
Stock Rwhp: 285
After Mods Rwhp: 471
Average Mileage stock: 11.8 mpg
Average Mileage mods: 17.4 mpg

Notes: Very basic delete package. Broad mileage jumped 5.6 mpg on simulated highway driving. Horsepower levels range from 40Hp increase to 185 hp increase on the Edge Race Evolution. Stock air box would pull filter restriction gauge with clean installation filter on even lower levels. Air box upgrade a must for this package.

Truck #2: 2008 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins
Mods: Full 4" Dpf and Cat delete exhaust, Flo-Pro Dpf electronics package
Stock Rwhp: 294
Mod Rwhp: 311
Average Mileage Stock: 12.1 mpg
Average Mileage Mods: 18.9 mpg

Notes: We were assuredly impressed with this package. The Flo-Pro electronics only disable the Dpf law and add assuredly no horsepower. The free flowing exhaust showed some horsepower gains. Mileage test was simulated highway driving with a truck weight of 8700lbs. Great mileage gain of 6.8 over stock. Cheap delete holder for off-road work trucks.

Truck #3: 2008 F-550 6.4 Powerstroke

Mods: Dpf delete into dual 5" exhaust, S&B Cold Air Intake, Power Hungry operation Gryphon programmer
Stock Rwhp: 268
Mod Rwhp: 447
Avg Hwy Mileage Stock: 9.2 mpg
Avg Hwy Mileage Mods: 17.3 mpg
Avg Tow mileage Stock: 6.4 mpg
Avg Tow mileage Mods: 14.2 mpg

Notes: This is a holder that we put together to simulate the gains possible on one of the hard working trucks that tows alot. The horsepower increase was dramatic, but the mileage gains were tremendous. We simulated a truck weight of 11,500 lbs for the highway tests and a trailer weight of 12,000 lbs for the tow test. The highway mileage tests of the mods showed a 8.1 mpg gain while the towing test also showed an spectacular, 8 mpg gain.

Truck #4: 2009 Dodge 2500 Cummins 6.7
Mods: 5" right Dpf/Cat delete exhaust, S&B Cold Air Intake, H&S Xrt programmer
Avg Hwy mileage stock:14.6 mpg
Avg Hwy mileage mods:21.2 mpg

Notes: We only did simulated hwy mileage tests on this truck. We just used the Xrt programmer to take off the Dpf functions from the computer and left the horsepower stock. The Xrt has horsepower increase levels of 60, 120, 175 horsepower. It will also shut the egr law off as well.

Truck #5: 2008 Ford F-350 6.4 Powerstroke
Mods: 4" Dpf delete pipe, 5" Mbrp dpf back exhaust, S&B cold air intake, Innovative Diesel custom tuned Sct Livewire
Stock Rwhp:289
Mod Rwhp: 536
Stock Mpg: 11.6 mpg
Mod Mpg: 17.4 mpg

Notes: This truck was an animal! The custom tunes were some of the smoothest shifting of any of the options we have tried and the power was crazy. There was a 247 rear wheel horsepower increase over stock on the highest level and the rear wheel torque was over 1000 ft/lbs! You would think there would be a serious drop in the mileage department, but we were surprised to see the truck gain nearly 6 mpg at even this horsepower level.

In conclusion, if you are seeing for some serious horsepower for the drag strip or the pulling track, these new base rail diesels make serious horsepower with very petite modification once the dpf is out of the way. Also, if you only operated your truck off-road there are some extremely impressive fuel economy gains to be had by removing the dpf filter. It is assuredly too bad that we couldn't run the trucks on communal roads with the dpf removed. We truly would have incredibly marvelous trucks that get great mileage and have spectacular, road manners.

Thanks for reading,
John Anderson


Dpf, What and Where Is It? How Does it Work? Should I Buy a Dpf Delete Kit?

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